Written for QANTAS Travel Insider – July 2012 (Original Article)
While Grasse in the south of France is traditionally the centre of the perfume world, the niche boutiques of Paris hold their own. Indulge in a whimsical trip through the past and present – via North Africa, India and Asia – to find a perfume that your neighbour on the flight home is unlikely to be wearing.
For historical context swing by the Fragonard Perfume Museum (9 Rue Scribe, +33 01 4742 0456) to see a diverse mix of perfume industry antiques, maps and bottles. But before getting too excited, take a pleasant stroll into the first arrondissement where you’ll find some of the best perfumeries the city has to offer.
erge Lutens – Jardin du Palais Royal, 142 Galerie de Valois, 75001.
This dimly-lit central Paris boutique with a spiral staircase leading up to a private salon is really a treat to visit. The bottles are simple, with a lovely old straight-from-la-labatoire feel about them, and are presented in two collections: rectangular bottles and the Palais Royal collection. The scents imagined by Lutens and created in close collaboration with a nez (a “nose”), are incredibly delicate and evocative.
Lutens grew up in Lille and first trained as a hairdresser before moving to Paris where he became a stylist and make-up artist for Vogue, styling exquisite fashion photos and eventually creating the cosmetic range for Christian Dior. In 1980 he partnered with Japanese cosmetic firm Shiseido to create his own perfumes.
Now based in Marrakesh, his interest in Arab and Indian cultures are present in the collections. Try the Fleur D’orangeur (orange blossom), Ambre (amber) or the De Profundis (with chrysanthemum).
International Arts & Travel reporter and principal of RUBY TV. 